Now that Spring is getting closer, we’re probably wanting to reach for a lighter lotion rather than an intensive cream. So, I created this formula for just that reason.
Making use of lighter, fast absorbing oils and Niacinamide to really help skin appearance in the months when we show more of it! This contains oils that help with dry flaky skin and conditions such as eczema. I know the audience is divided over Dimethicone. Personally, I have found it very beneficial for those with dry skin and I love the skin feel it provides, but you can happily omit it and up the water percentage if you prefer, or replace with another beneficial ingredient of choice.
A bit about Niacindamide, our star ingredient
Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin. It is naturally present in many foods, including meat, fish, and dairy products. Niacinamide is also a popular ingredient in cosmetics due to its many benefits for the skin.
Niacinamide is a versatile ingredient that has been proven to improve a range of skin concerns. One of its primary benefits is its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This is because niacinamide helps to increase the production of collagen, a protein that is essential for maintaining the structure and elasticity of the skin. By increasing collagen production, niacinamide can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making the skin look smoother and more youthful.
Another benefit of niacinamide is its ability to regulate oil production in the skin. This makes it an excellent ingredient for people with oily or acne-prone skin. Niacinamide helps to regulate sebum production, which can help to prevent the development of acne. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help to reduce the redness and inflammation associated with acne.
Niacinamide is also an effective skin brightening agent. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for dark spots and hyperpigmentation. By reducing the production of melanin, niacinamide can help to even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots.
In addition to its cosmetic benefits, niacinamide is also a potent antioxidant. This means that it can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can damage skin cells and accelerate the aging process. By protecting the skin from free radical damage, niacinamide can help to keep the skin looking healthy and youthful.
One of the great things about niacinamide is that it is suitable for all skin types. It is gentle and non-irritating, making it an excellent ingredient for people with sensitive skin. It is also non-comedogenic, which means that it won't clog pores or cause breakouts.
In conclusion, niacinamide is a versatile and effective ingredient in cosmetics. It has a range of benefits for the skin, including improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, regulating oil production, brightening the skin, and providing antioxidant protection. It is a gentle and non-irritating ingredient that is suitable for all skin types. If you're looking to improve the appearance and health of your skin, consider incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine.
Though gentle and non-irritating, it can cause skin purging if too much of a concentration is used. Meaning it will draw impurities to the surface and cause blemishes. To avoid this start with a low concentration in your products of around 0.5-2% and build up gradually. Usage rates are around 0.01%-3%.
Niacinamide is stable in a pH range of 4-8 and is heat stable.
Now, you understand more about this ingredient, lets get on with the formula.
Formula 200g Batch
Phase A – Heated oil phase
10% (20g) Macadamia Oil - Fast absorbing, moisturizing and helps to reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks. Full of antioxidants and said to have anti-aging effects.
5% (10g) Kukui Nut Oil – Helps to reduce any inflammation on the skin and even out the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It’s fast absorbing, extra moisturizing and does not clog pores.
5% (10g) Camellia seed oil - Contains vitamins that stimulate collagen production. Is said to help smooth out wrinkles and fine lines reducing signs of aging.
4% (8g) BTMS-50 – A beautifully conditioning emulsifier that I love using in hand creams for the amazing feel on the skin.
2% (4g) Cetearyl Alcohol – Helps with the spreadabilty and luxurious feel of the product, and aids stability.
Phase B – Heated water phase
62% (124g) Water – Hydrating, Solvent
5% (10g) Vegetable glycerine – Humectant
2% (4g) Niacinamide – Improves the general appearance of skin including fine lines and skin tone and helps pore appear less enlarged.
Phase C – Cool down phase
2% (4g) Saligard PCG - Broad Spectrum Preservative which is It is paraben, formaldehyde and palm free. It is suitable for Vegan formulations. Compatible with ionic, cationic and non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers, aqueous and anhydrous formulations.
1.5% (3g) Fragrance oil of choice – Check IFRA for allowed amount for your fragrance
1% (2g) Dimethicone – A silicone occlusive that is very effective ingredient for locking in moisture and aiding in the luxury feel of lotions and creams, it non-comedogenic and very good for dry skin conditions.
0.5% (1g) Vitamin e – Anti-oxidant that aids in cell regeneration.
Mix Phase A in a heat proof beaker.
Mix Phase B Water and Niacinamide together until dissolved, then add the Glycerine to the beaker.
Weigh Phase B.
Heat Phases A and B separately in a Bane Marie until Phase B has melted and both phases are around the same temperature.
Weigh Phase B and replace any water lost to evaporation.
Pour Phase B into Phase A and shear mix (a stick blender is fine) until combined into an emulsion.
Allow to cool to 40 degrees C.
Add phase C to your phase A B emulsion and stir well to combine.
You need a pH of 6 for the niacinamide to remain effective. Adjust pH down with a 50/50 Citric acid solution. 2-4 drops should do it.
Once you have the correct pH you can jar or bottle up immediately or leave overnight before doing so. Note that the final viscosity is usually reached next day.
If you are bothered by bugs a lot in the summer, add peppermint essential oil instead of fragrance oil at around 0.5% for a gorgeous smelling lotion that will repel most annoying bugs.
For an extra hydrating lotion, you can add Saccharide Isomerate plus in the cool down phase at around 2%.
Disclaimer: These formulas and recipes are experiments created for the purpose of sharing on Patreon and YouTube. Revega does not make any claims as to their qualifications or the efficacy of the formulations which are listed here for entertainment purposes and accepts no responsibility for how you use these. We are self-taught and offer these videos from our years of knowledge and experience in making our own cosmetic products.
Remember that if you intend to use one of these formulations for your own product range, do your own research, experiments, adjustments and tests before using, gifting or selling