How to make a Tropical Whipped Soap from scratch without a base
As you saw in our first whipped soap (no base) recipe, then you know that you can easily make a very nice whipped soap without using a pre-made base. It's soft and fluffy and lovely to use, but we can improve on it more by making some additions.
Whilst the first base recipe gave you a starting point as a ‘whipped soap’ cleanser, this recipe adds in some moisturizing and moisture retaining ingredients to benefit the skin and give the product an overall nicer feel.
Adding Glycerin as a humectant will enhance the skin feel and benefits of using the product, as will the addition of oil. I’ve kept the percentages of ingredients at a point whereby the finished product is a lovely whipped cream consistency.
I’ve also made it as a half-and-half recipe, meaning that each colour is a different fragrance, within the allowed fragrance limit.
You can also add sugar at the end and recalculate your percentages for a lovely sugar scrub formula. You can add as much sugar as you like without affecting the foaming abilities as it’s an exfoliating ingredient and not a dilutant, though I wouldn’t go overboard as it won’t be pleasant to use!
This recipe is fairly simple and allows you to make a consistently good product time after time that you can customize the way you want. It is an aqueous formula, meaning that you need a preservative. You can use the one we have suggested here or your own preference, but make sure that it is broad spectrum.
Shelf life of 6-12 months is advised when stored correctly. Remember that you need to stability test and obtain a CPSR before gifting or selling your finished products.
You’ll need:
· Scales
· Respirator
· Heat proof beakers or bowl
· Pan or bane marie or double boiler
· Stirring rods
· Small dishes or beakers for ingredients
· PPE – Gloves, mask, apron, hairnet
Formula:
Phase A
· 15% Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) (foaming) – Anionic Surfactant with great cleansing and foaming abilities. Powder is easier to work with than noodles.
· 15% Cocamidopropyl Betaine (foaming) – Amphoteric Surfactant which works exceptionally well with SCI to reduce irritation and enhance the foaming texture of the final product.
Phase B
· 44% Distilled Water – hydrating base ingredient.
· 5% Glycerin – Humectant
· 1% Banana Fruit Powder – Good for smoothing and moisturizing dry skin, and rich in magnesium, potassium, and antioxidants A, C and E. It takes a bit of agitating to fully incorporate into the mixture when heated, so be patient with it.
Phase C
· 8% Stearic acid – Used to thicken the product, act as an emulsifier and soften the skin and help it to retain moisture.
· 3% Emulsifying wax – Emulsifier and hardener
· 5% Banana infused Sunflower Oil
Phase D
· 1% Phenoxyethanol EHG (preservative) – A broad spectrum preservative that’s easy to work with and commonly used in products such as this.
· 0.5% Vitamin e - antioxidant
Phase E
· 2% fragrance oil (scent) – 1% Banana, 1% mango - Add according to IFRA allowed amounts (don’t forget to calculate your allergens)
· 0.5% Mica or pigment (colour) – Use mica or neon pigments up to the allowed amount for your desired colour.
Recipe for 200g batch
Phase A
· 30g Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI)
· 30g Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Phase B
· 88g Distilled Water
· 10g Glycerin
· 2g Banana fruit powder
Phase C
· 16g Stearic acid
· 6g Emulsifying wax
· 10g Banana infused Sunflower Oil
Phase D
· 2g Phenoxyethanol EHG
· 1g Vitamin e
Phase E
· 4g fragrance oil (scent) – 2g Banana, 2g Mango
· 1g Mica or pigment (up to)
Method
· Add Phase A surfactant ingredients together and stir to form a thick paste, and heat in bane marie.
· Heat phase B – take weight beforehand and replace any afterwards that has evaporated.
· Heat phase C in a beaker until melted.
· Once the stearic acid in phase C has melted take phases A, B and C off the heat and allow them to all come to the same temperature, failure to do so can cause the stearic acid to crystalize.
· Pour phase B water in phase C
· Add your phase A surfactant mixture to the phase B and C mixture.
· Whip with a hand mixer to a thick creamy texture.
· Allow cooling to 40 degrees C
· Add phase D preservative and vitamin e and fragrance and whip again until light and fluffy.
· Now separate the mix 50/50 into two bowls and add the yellow colour and banana fragrance to one and the orange colour and mango fragrance to the other.
· Whip each gently to incorporate.
· Leaving this formula overnight and then whipping again prior to filling jars is beneficial to get the ideal texture.
· The ingredients in this formula should produce a good PH from the offset, but you should still check PH and adjust if required. Skin has a PH of between 4.5 and 5.5, and although bath products can be slightly higher, whipped soap is known for being a very gentle cleansing product and therefore I’d recommend aiming for around 5.5 on the PH scale. If you have a PH meter then you can use that for an accurate reading. Or if you don’t have one then PH strips may be enough for this particular product.
· Portion into jars by piping a half and half swirl or use a spatula to layer the colours and scents.
Use in the shower as a creamy body wash.
To turn this recipe into a scoopable sugar scrub:
· I did a split fragrance in this recipe, so I split the base into two and added half of the total allowed fragrance percentage as banana to the yellow half and the other half as mango to the orange half. So long as you do not go over the allowed IFRA percentage and two fragrances combined are no more than the recipe total allowed %, then you can do this, but will need to have it assessed as such.
Make sure that you weigh each half accurately so you have exactly half, else the fragrance to base concentration will be off.
NOTES:
· Always use a proper respirator when working with fine powders such as pigment and SCI. SCI powder is extremely unpleasant if you breathe it in and dangerous to inhale. Work in a well-ventilated room and wear your respirator until you have finished formulating and cleared away.
· Always perform your own stability tests before selling and product and obtain a CPSR.
Disclaimer: These formulas and recipes are experiments created for the purpose of sharing on Patreon and YouTube. Revega does not make any claims as to their qualifications or the efficacy of the formulations which are listed here for entertainment purposes and accepts no responsibility for how you use these. We are self-taught and offer these videos from our years of knowledge and experience in making our own cosmetic products.
Remember that if you intend to use one of these formulations for your own product range, do your own research, experiments, adjustments and tests before using, gifting or selling.
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