Why It’s Difficult to Safety Assess Herbal Infusions in Cosmetics

Herbal infusions are popular in cosmetics for their perceived benefits—from soothing skin irritations to providing natural antioxidants. The increasing consumer demand for "natural" and plant-based products has fuelled this popularity of herbal ingredients in skincare, haircare, and other cosmetic formulations. However, when it comes to safety assessments for these botanicals, the process is far from straightforward. Several challenges make it difficult to assess their safety, ranging from variability in plant chemistry to gaps in regulatory standards.

I’m going to talk about a few reasons why botanical infusions can be so difficult to assess and why your cosmetic safety assessor may refuse to assess your formulation if it includes one.

1. Complexity and Variability of Botanical Ingredients

One of the biggest hurdles in assessing the safety of herbal infusions is the complexity of plant chemistry. Herbs are composed of a wide range of bioactive compounds, many of which can have different effects on the skin or body depending on their concentration, method of extraction, and individual plant variety. Some plants may produce compounds that have irritating or sensitizing effects on the skin, while others may not. This variability makes it challenging to establish consistent safety guidelines for herbal infusions when used in cosmetic products.

2. Lack of Standardized Testing Protocols

Unlike synthetic chemicals, which are often studied in controlled laboratory settings to determine safe usage concentrations and potential risks, herbal infusions are not always subject to the same level of rigorous testing.

There are limited standardized protocols for evaluating the safety of herbal ingredients in cosmetics, especially when it comes to their use in infusion form (e.g. dried plant material steeped in water or oil).

3. Interactions with Other Ingredients

As part of a formulation the infusion will be combined with a range of other ingredients, such as preservatives, surfactants, emulsifiers, and possibly fragrance. The way these ingredients interact with each other can dramatically affect the safety profile of the final product.

For example, an herbal infusion might be perfectly safe when used on its own, but when incorporated into a formula with preservatives or emulsifiers, chemical reactions could occur, altering the stability or safety of the product. In some cases, the combination of botanical extracts with other ingredients could lead to irritation, sensitization, or allergic reactions, especially in individuals with sensitive skin.

These potential interactions make it more difficult to predict how an herbal-infused product will behave once it is applied to the skin, adding another layer of complexity to safety assessments.

4. Lack of Clinical Data

Much of the research on herbal products focuses on their therapeutic efficacy rather than their safety profiles, leaving gaps in the knowledge about how these ingredients affect the skin when used in commercial cosmetic products.

Additionally, many herbal infusions have not undergone clinical trials designed to assess their safety in cosmetic formulations. Without this evidence, it can be difficult to determine safe concentrations and potential side effects.

5. Allergenic Potential and Sensitization

Herbal ingredients, like essential oils, resins, and certain plant-based extracts, can trigger allergic reactions or skin sensitivities in some individuals.

Also, sometimes when an allergic reaction has occurred, future sensitivity to that ingredient can increase, leading to life long sensitization.

6. Environmental and Sustainability Issues

The environmental impact and sustainability of sourcing herbs can also complicate safety assessments. Over-harvesting, contamination from pesticides, and poor handling practices can all affect the safety and quality of herbal materials posing health risks to consumers.

The sourcing and supply chain of herbal ingredients must be carefully monitored to ensure that they meet safety standards for purity and quality. However, since herbal sources often come from different regions and producers, the consistency of these materials can be highly variable, making it difficult to predict their safety in end formulations.

In conclusion:

Ultimately, both consumers and formulators must approach herbal-infused cosmetics with a balanced understanding of their potential benefits and risks, recognizing that "natural" does not always equate to "safe" without proper scientific validation.

If you have a formulation incorporating herbal infusions, then I suggest that you contact Michael at MAF Cosmetic Consultants.  He is a qualified cosmetic safety assessor who can guide you through whether your product can be safely assessed, and if not, will be able to make recommendations on changes to your formula to make it safe and suitable for your customers.